Just outside San Miguel de Allende, there’s a crew of dynamic winemakers reviving centuries-old traditions.
It was August, the peak of harvest season, and Taylor Goodall was driving me to Cava Garambullo. The small winery is 15 minutes north of San Miguel de Allende, where Goodall opened the five-bedroom Hotel Amparo. Goodall’s friends, Branko Pjanic and Natalia López Mota, the husband-and-wife team behind Cava Garambullo, had asked him to their vineyard to help crush grapes. Ahead of us, a roadrunner hurried across Route 51, disappearing into a landscape of pepper trees and cacti. Given that we were in wine country, I expected to see grapevines left and right, but there were none in sight.
“The region is less than twenty years old in the wine world, and some of the producers are really young,” Goodall explained, easing my confusion. “It’s kind of undiscovered right now.” In town, this shows. Local wines are not common on menus, and most people order beer or tequila.
But now, as the area revives its wine heritage, that’s beginning to change. Guanajuato—a state in the central highlands of Mexico that’s slightly smaller than Maryland—isn’t recognized for its wine in the same way as Baja California‘s long-established Valle de Guadalupe. Visitors to San Miguel de Allende and the state’s capital city, Guanajuato, are more likely to focus on art, architecture, and textile design.
San Miguel Times